If you're concerned about fakes, I'd stick to buying from reputable sellers who have clear return policies and plenty of positive feedback. (The speaker was too loud, the tracking was off, and the LEDs were too bright) (mirroring the image here, since I had trouble accessing the site & had to hit a google cache - apologies & credit to the original poster, crashcraz3)Īs you can see, they're virtually identical from a visual standpoint - the differences were only noticeable when it was in use. In your case, I looked up images of the "fake" Wiimotes that are floating around, and found some photos in this thread where they were pretty sure they got a counterfeit, but it looked practically identical:
CHECK WII U SERIAL NUMBER SERIAL NUMBER
The serial number will usually be denoted by an S/N: on the box, as you’ll see below. There’s no set length the manufacturer determines that. A serial number is usually a combination of letter and numbers. There were even compliance and serial number labels in the proper places, and they fit just fine with the other case parts I had from my broken DS. Should you need to find your phone’s, there are a few places you can look. I assume that security in many of the factories that produce these items is relatively lax (or the intellectual property rights aren't completely enforced) because I could swear they came from the same molds the original parts did. I've got some replacement DS case parts that look absolutely identical to the original model. On the other hand, visually inspecting a "good fake" is much, much harder. Bad paint job (matte where it should be glossy, or things like the logo just scratch off) - this is especially obvious on buttons, which are usually coated to prevent the numbers/letters from rubbing off, but probably won't be nearly as durable on a fake.
If you see a lot of light leakage around the LEDs, (ie, the plastic seems to "glow" around them) this is a good indication that the plastic is cheap/thin
0 kommentar(er)
